Kerala’s Little Israel: Jews Fly Down as Kochi Synagogue Turns 450

MATTANCHERRY: The otherwise quiet lanes of the Jew Street in Mattancherry were once again bustling with life and fervour. The road leading to the Paradesi synagogue looked like a mini-Israel, filled with hundreds of Jews, most of them who were returning to Kochi after years.

Around 200 of them, young and old, had flown down from various parts of the world to celebrate the 450th anniversary of the synagogue. The three-day celebration will include prayers, processions and remembrance meets.

There was a lot of excitement in the air as they welcomed each other back to the place where their ancestors once flourished before moving to Israel. Now only five Paradesi Jews remain in Kochi, including 96-year-old Sarah Cohen.

For some, it was a time to meet old school and college friends, not just Jews but others as well. No wonder, many of them admitted that from the time they landed in Kochi, they have been busy catching up with friends.

“Edi, Cynthea,” shouted sixty-fouryear-old Metilda H Davidson in excitement on meeting her friend after decades. They started chatting up like little children, recounting their lives in Kochi before migrating to Israel.

While sixty-seven-year-old Cynthea Ruth left for Israel in 1987, Mathilda’s family migrated some 30 years ago. They were in touch with each other and meeting occasionally in Israel. They said their conversation helped them to keep alive the Malayalam they learned long ago.

Wearing a kurta and with jasmine flowers on her head, Metilda was speaking in Malayalam to her friends. She told them about her visit to her alma mater St Mary’s School in Fort Kochi. “The first thing I did when I reached Kochi this morning was to buy jasmine flowers. I took a walk around the Jew Street, reminiscing childhood days with friends. Those were truly the golden days of my life,” she said. On the other hand, Cynthea was keen to check out her house where she had spent her childhood. “My home was at the Jew Street entrance. So much has changed over the years but still I feel the same way as I used to when I was a child,” she said. Cynthea, who studied medicine from Thiruvananthapuram medical college, said: “This visit is very special as I am going to meet my classmates after several decades. We have planned a get-together on Friday,” said Cynthea, who is married to a Malayali.

While men were dressed formally with a ‘kipah’ on their head, several women were in saris and churidars, and had jasmine flowers on their hair.

They hugged each other in front of the synagogue, and no introductions were needed. Seeing the beautifully lit synagogue with lamps and chandeliers, jasmine flowers and colourful clothes, they recollected how they used to come with family as children to the synagogue for prayers. On the other hand, Deborah Koden had never been to the Jew Street. Her father, now 98, had migrated to England in 1946 and she was born there. “He always used to talk about his home close to the synagogue. He wanted to come and see his home and pray at the synagogue. But since he can’t travel due to poor health, I decided to come and promised to send him videos and photos of the celebration,” said Deborah.

The celebrations were organized by the Cochin Synagogue Trust that has 120 members in Israel. The prayer meet and celebrations were held amid tight security due to the presence of high profile officials, including the consulate general of the state of Israel in Bengaluru Dana Kursh. Besides security agents from Israel, more than 20 police personnel headed by Mattancherry sub-inspector guarded the synagogue while the prayers were going on. No tourists were allowed to enter it and vehicles were blocked at the entrance of the Jew Street. The synagogue would be opened to tourists only on Monday once the Hanukkah ends. “It is a great occasion for me, both as an Israeli and as a diplomat. I am happy that I could take part in the event,” said Dana.

Source: ToI

Image Courtesy: Aclassictour